“Do you believe in the Otherworld?”

“Yes, definitely”, which is the answer you will get from almost all the 4.5 billion and more people in Asia-Pacific region, and in Oriental countries including Vietnam in particular. Out of such religious belief, the need for offerings to send to the dead spirits in the other world appeared, causing dozens of villages specializing in making trumpery paper stuffs to form.

1872 saw the invasion of the French into Hanoi, followed by the renames of all the streets and stores. Hàng Mã, living up to its meaning in Vietnamese – the street of trumpery paper goods – paper votive offerings, was called Rue du Cuivre then.

It has been a crowded, bustling and narrow street with all the houses built in the distinct old architecture of Hanoi – 2-storey very narrow block with windows and doors open to the street, tile roof and a porch expanding over the frontage – which was somehow used properly as both homes and working places.

Hàng Mã would be really busy from August, which is July in the lunar calendar, preparing for lots of ritual days such as Mid-Autumn Festival preceding our traditional Lunar New year. Since 1986 so far, there has been a decrease in the number of families running this business, partly due to the government’s policies against superstitions but also because of competitive Chinese goods. They, instead of making goods on their own, hire premises in the suburb and craftsmen there to produce goods as ordered.

The colorful street we find today has been blended with tons of children’s favorites such as lion heads, lanterns of all designs from the old-fashioned five-star ones to those printed with cartoon characters, masks, bubble guns, disguise clothes and so on. People often joke that this business will never cease going up as goods can be stored for variable sale seasons from Vietnamese Mid-autumn festival and Tết to western holiday like Halloween and Christmas, which is thanked the cross-culture.

To enjoy the atmosphere to its fullest, just visit Hàng Mã on the above occasions when stores are open all day until midnight. If you do not find the overcrowded streets a good idea, however, come by at any time, but before 7 to 8 pm to make sure that the close side of the board has not been switched on. Suppose you are wondering how to get to this lovely destination, here is the probably easiest and most familiar route for you. Just follow Đinh Tiên Hoàng St. until you meet Hàng Ngang – Hàng Đào St.(which faces the fountain at the end of the walking street curving around Sword lake); be patient and keep walking ahead before taking the forth on the left. Well done, now welcome to one of our busiest ancient streets.

To see more photos, check the open album below or go to Flickr:
Photo Album Flickr
(Please use the left/right arrows to navigate in the files of the open album)

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